Kyoto

If it takes me forever, I WILL get through all of the places I visited in Japan. Other points of interest in my life, Pat got in to Sydney on Monday and our housewarming/Australian 4th of July party is this weekend. Incidentally, as it is getting cold in Sydney right now, Pat and I got in a conversation about where Sydney lies in latitude south relative to places in the U.S. at an equivalent latitude. I nerded out and looked it up. Sydney is about equal to Atlanta, GA, and Brisbane is about equal to Tampa, Florida.

So on to Kyoto. Kyoto is famous for having a lot of temples so it followed that that was going to be how we spent the majority of our time. The first temple we went and saw was the Golden Pavilion, or the Rokuon-Ji temple...also known as where I bought the post cards you all got (or didn't get in some cases).



Kinkaku is the popular name for the main, recognizable building which means 'Golden Pavilion'. It was built by a Shogun of Ashikaga in 1394. After his death, it became a Zen temple. Unfortunately in 1950, a crazy monk who was obsessed with the temple consummated his obsession by burning it to the ground. They have since rebuilt it (obviously). When I was at this temple, I bought a japanese necklace that was supposed to be for good luck. I don't know if it was in my best interest to buy a symbol of luck at the site of a zen temple that wasn't so lucky...

After temple-hopping, we walked to the Geisha district in Kyoto (this is also the only area you can see Geishas but its very rare). We weren't so lucky and instead settled on looking at what is considered one of the prettiest streets in Kyoto (we assume they mean when the cherry blossoms are in bloom, which they weren't) and we had dinner at a place on the floor. Around this point in our trip, eating while sitting on the floor was no longer a novelty as a bit of an annoyance since I couldn't seem to find a position that was comfortable.




The next few days were unfortunately a bit rainy but we still ventured forth and saw more temples. Some of the greater points of interest were the bamboo forest at one temple (which just looked really cool) and the one temple we went to where they had us take off our shoes, go down into a completely pitch black room, leading ourselves through the dark with a railing on the wall that was supposed to represent monk prayer beads. At the end of what seemed like forever of walking through total darkness, we came along a huge boulder that must have been hanging (though it was too dark to tell) and the only part illuminated was the top that had some sort of Japanese symbol on it. We had been instructed to spin the boulder and make a wish. The entire process was supposed to symbolize a rebirth, apparently. I'll let you know if my wish comes true.




Also, at one of the temples, there was a fountain of holy water where you waited in line, then got a cup attached to stick and reached it out from under the fountain to capture some holy water and drink it to 'cleanse' yourself. I just did it cause I was thirsty.



From a personal enjoyment perspective, my favorite thing we did was probably the monkey sanctuary, where you actually sat in a cage and put food in your hands and the Japanese monkeys came and took it from you. (Apparently to me, cool animals > really old temples). The sanctuary was also at the very top of a steep hike, so the monkeys/we had an amazing view of Kyoto and the Mountains.





Other points of interest in Kyoto...Beer in street vending machines (this was actually throughout Japan and leads me to believe there is no curfew on alcohol, enforcement of legal ages or open container laws) and toilets that were literally just a hole in the ground. I couldn't help but wonder how many drunk people have accidentally stepped in them.




So that covers Kyoto in a nutshell...After that, it was off to Nara...

Hakone

The next leg of the trip took us to Hakone. We had wanted to come here to 1) See Mt. Fuji (We initially had wanted to hike it, but due to the limited time we had in Japan and the sheer number of things we wanted to see, we had to settle for just seeing it) and 2) Experience a more traditional Japan.

I can’t remember exactly how many trains we had to take, but it was not a short or easy journey to get to Hakone. We took several trains, then a bus (on the bus ride, we saw gorilla crossing signs – I tried to take a picture but the bus was moving too quickly). The bus dropped us off in Hakone, where we got some green tea ice cream (DELICIOUS!) and then hopped aboard a pirate ship…I’m not kidding…that took us to other side of the bay, from where we took a ski lift type ride from where we had to take a cable car to get to our Ryokan (The place we were staying – More on that later).



Got a little Captain in ya?

On the pirate ship is where we were planning to catch our glimpse of Mt. Fuji but unfortunately the weather had not cooperated with us, and it was extremely overcast. We did get lucky though, and the clouds parted just enough to get a quick view of it and a few pictures that you have to strain your eyes a bit to see, but hey, I’ll take it.



At the other end of the bay, we got on one of those closed compartments that rides on a cable up the side of a mountain. I’m not sure of the exact name of it but you see them at ski resorts all the time. On the ride, we hopped off at one of the stops to take a detour and see the Owakundani volcanic cauldron of steam. A lot of Japan is built on volcanic land, but this area was literally steaming. You could see the steam seep out of the land as we rode up.


Naturally, any place where the ground is literally steaming is a place that needs to be explored. There was a long walk up to a small cabin near the top. The farther up we got, the more the air smelled of sulfur. At the top, we discovered the small cabin was a place where they sold ‘black eggs’ or essentially eggs that they had bathed in the sulfuric hot springs so that their shells turned black. The belief was that if you eat an egg, you get seven years longevity. After observing the popularity of these eggs amongst the large volume of Japanese people around us, I concluded that some of these people must make the trek all the way up here periodically in an effort to improve their longevity.





After hopping back on the cable ride and a quick cable car ride later, we had a long walk and finally arrived at our Ryokan.

So a Ryokan is an accommodation facility which is imbued with the traditional culture of Japan. Our room had Tatami (straw mat) flooring and we had to leave our shoes at the door of it. They provided us with a typical Yukata (robe) which we wore to and from the Onsen which is essentially a public hot-spring bath where everyone gets naked and finally you sleep on a Futon put down directly on the Tatami floor. They also provide traditional Japanese dinner and breakfast the following morning.
When we first got into the room, I must have been quiet for a really long time because Lindsey inquired whether I was freaking out or not. I wasn’t freaking out but instead just taking it all in. The whole place was so curious to me. I couldn’t stop taking pictures. At the same time, it was very peaceful. We were in a very remote village (if you couldn’t tell by the number of forms of transportation we had to take to get there), and when we went and sat on our balcony, the only noises, besides the occasional other Ryokan guests walking by, were ones coming from the forest around us.



All Yukata'd out!

After dressing up in our yukata’s, we decided it was time to brave the Onsens. As I mentioned before, an Onsen is a natural hot spring sauna essentially, but there are a few rules. 1) Total nudity. No time to be bashful in this place. You had one towel you could use to cover yourself from where you had to undress to where you got into the Onsen and it was roughly the size of my forearm. 2) No tattoos. Apparently this is a policy that the Onsen’s have enacted to keep out the Japanese mafia. If the Japanese mafia started using an Onsen, it would quickly lose popularity amongst other patrons, and since there are so many alternatives available (the natural hot springs are generated from the volcanic land Japan is built on, so there are tons) it could quickly cause an Onsen to go out of business. 3) Apparently there is a certain way you are supposed to tie up your yukata. When Lindsey got out of the Onsen and was getting dressed, an old, naked Japanese woman ran at Lindsey in all her glory, to show her that she had put on her robe incorrectly. 4) You shower before you go in. At first I found this strange, since the idea of an Onsen is to be a bath, but once I got in and realized there doesn’t appear to be a drain anywhere, I probably wasn’t gonna be getting out of this thing a whole lot cleaner than I got in.

After our Onsen experience, one I am unlikely to ever repeat but glad I can check it off the list, we headed upstairs for dinner. We weren’t aware that we were supposed to wear our yukutas to dinner as well, and came in normal clothes. Considering we were the only English speaking people at the Ryokan, I think they forgave us for our ignorance.

Dinner was a large and eclectic mix of many different Japanese dishes. I couldn’t tell you what foods or animals I ate during that meal suffice to say I definitely ate a few things that still had eyes. When we retired back to our room, our beds had been rolled out on the tatami floor.

In Japan, there is the following proverb: “Go ni itte wa go ni shitagae” (literally, “When in a village, do as the villagers do”, which is equivalent to the English proverb, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do”) This was probably one of the more notable and profound portions of the trip for me since we came into contact with the traditions, culture, climate and customs of Japan, and we truly did as they did.
The next morning, we had our traditional Japanese breakfast, hopped back on the cable car and headed for Kyoto.

Tokyo

Alright, sorry for the delay. Obviously after getting back to work from having almost 2 weeks off, they didn't exactly ease me back in gently. It's been chaotic here and I still haven't even had a chance to unpack my bag from Japan and do laundry that is desperately needing to be done. However, I owe it to YOU, my loyal followers (Mom, Dad and Nanny Ree) to update you on my trip. Since it was so long, it will take a few different entries to cover everything so I figured I'd start where the trip started...Tokyo.

The first three days we spent in Tokyo were for the Sales Conference so we were in an area called Odaiba, which is basically a small, man-made island that is pretty far from anything fun, but is presumably a good area for Sales Conferences as the absence of anything fun would, in theory, prevent poor attendance at the conference. In practice however...

Anyway, the real time we were able to explore and see Tokyo was starting on Friday through Sunday when we left to go to Kyoto. Friday we used Lindsey's Lonely Planet travel guide to pick out a few things that were the highlights we had to see. One of the first things we checked out was the Meiji Jinju Shrine. To get to it, we walked down a long path through what I would essentially describe as a forest. We got to the Shrine and there was a small are to the left with water set up so you could cleanse your hands and mouth before you went to visit the shrine.


Here I am cleansing my hands before my visit to the shrine

When you went up to the shrine (which unfortunately you aren't allowed to take pictures of) you walk past the threshold, walk up to where there are slots and you throw your offering (a coin or two) into them. Then you silently say your prayer, bow, clap twice, and take a step back before turning and exiting. As simple as this whole procedure was, I was a nervous wreck that I was going to screw it up or somehow offend their culture (which us Americans have a tendency to do). The nod of approval I received from the security guard upon my exit let me know that I had done everything A-Okay!

In the main area of the shrine, there was a place where you could write down your prayers and put them in an envelope with a coin and drop the envelope down a slot. If you wanted to pay a little more, you could write your prayer on a wooden tablet and hang it where many other prayers hung. The prayers ranged from the very earnest to the slightly bizarre to completely absurd. Regardless, I felt there was definitely something to be admired in this religion. There was no aspect of it being at all preachy or controlling which I often feel that our more westernized religions are. There was no timetable people had to abide by to come by and worship or say their prayers. They came as they pleased, gave their offering to the shrine, and their prayers were often related to basic desires in life...health and happiness for their family and loved ones, peace, safety, etc. I could really get on board with a religion like that.




The shrine itself was very peaceful, which is ironic because besides that I found Tokyo to be very chaotic. Going to Shinjuku crossing and watching the sheer volume of people that cross the street every time the lights are red is mind blowing.


Shinjuku Crossing

Japanese people, while very friendly and helpful (as much as they can be without many of them speaking English) also don't have the same sense of personal space that I am used to. I also found that it is very common for them to nap on public transportation. A fact I found both peculiar and amusing. Any given train we got onto often had multiple people trying to get a quick snooze in between stops.



This is a shot I took from my phone on some random train.

In the next few days, Lindsey and I met up with a girl who had been in her sorority and works for Google in the U.S., Barrie. Barrie, in turn, introduced us to a girl she knew through a friend, Ikuko, who is a Japanese woman who works for Apple. Having Ikuko as our tour guide changed the way we were able to look at Tokyo completely. She took us to a sake bar that was down an alley and had no signs outside indicating what it was. She took us to some of the best restaurants in Tokyo, along with one where part of Kill Bill was shot. Being with Ikuko gave us a lot of insight into how the Japanese culture works. Ikuko actually works for Apple and she was explaining what a God send it is that she works for an American company because in Japan, once a woman has a child, she becomes practically unemployable to all Japanese customs. It was strange to know that such a developed country still has such archaic views on womens rights. Ikuko poked fun at some of the Japanese traditions she considered absurd such as having to essentially inspect your tea cup in such a way when tea is poured for you. (Also, FYI, in Japan it is considered rude to either stick your chopsticks in your rice and leave them there or to pour your own sake. Someone else always has to pour for you). Ikuko is a pretty remarkable woman in any culture. She surfs and had just done a 1000KM walk for charity on top of being a smart, well educated person. I found it sad that in a way I felt she was trapped and unable to fully realize her potential in this culture, and more upsetting, she was smart enough to know it.

By the time we had gotten to Sunday, I was ready to leave Tokyo. Though I had thoroughly enjoyed my stay, and I enjoyed the quirks that the Japanese culture infused into the city, it was ultimately just another big, chaotic city, and I was looking forward to the next leg of our journey in Hakone.

Japandemonium!

So, I know there has been a strong push for a blog update from me from my three loyal blog followers (Hi Mom, Dad & Nanny Ree!!!) and obviously getting back to work after two weeks out, I'm pretty slammed at work and don't have much time. However, I found a little time today to upload a lot of the pictures I took during my trip to Picasa so hopefully that will suffice until I get a little more time and I can tell you all about my experience.

The pictures should be viewable here: http://picasaweb.google.com/EmilyKarp

Enjoy!

Japan Itinerary

Just in case you were curious, this is how the Japan trip is shaping up. A lot of the notes are from friends who have been there before advising where to go and what to do. I'm sure there is going to be a lot more to talk about after I get back but for now, at least you have an idea of where I'll be on different days.


Japan Trip

Tuesday - Fly into Tokyo

Wednesday/Thursday - Sales conference in Tokyo

Friday 11th - Tokyo

Shinjuku - $150

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g1066456-d320581-r65269099-Sunroute_Plaza_Shinjuku_Hotel-Shibuya_Tokyo_Tokyo_Prefecture_Kanto.html#CHECK_RATES_CONT

Asakusa temple

-Asakusa temple is cool, I also really liked Meiji Jingu. It's right next to Harajuku. It's weird because Harajuku is so crazy and Meiji is really peaceful. But temples aren't the best part of Tokyo. Yo will see a ton in Nara and Kyoto.
-Must go see the Harajuku girls and wander around the little alleyways and shops.
-Shibuya is a must, it's the spot in lost in translation with the dinosaurs on the screen. It's also the largest crosswalk ever. Get to a high spot and watch it all unfold!

Saturday 12th - Tokyo

Fish Markets

Go to the fish market EARLY EARLY. The earlier the better. You want to be there right when they bring in the big tuna off the ship. If you go at 7 its too late. I think we took the first train at 5.


-You must go out in Tokyo! STay out till dawn and get a shawerma or ramen. Oh I miss Japanese ramen!
-In Shibuya there is a huge department store called 109. It's worth going into just to see how ridiculous it is. all the girls have that fake tanned skin and bleach blond hair. They play loud obnoxious music too. They are called "garus" and it's a really popular dress for young girls.
-Shinjuku is good for food and some nightlife, but Roppongi is king

Sunday 13th -Tokyo - Hakone
Accomodation:

Lindsey's Pick:
Taiseikin - $303
Rakuten Reviews
TripAdvisor Review


Others:
http://web.travel.rakuten.co.jp/portal/my/info_page_e.Eng?f_no=18497&f_teikei=&f_in=20100613&f_out=20100614&f_adult_su=1&f_s1=0&f_s2=0&f_y1=0&f_y2=0&f_y3=0&f_y4=0&f_heya_su=1 - $153


Monday - Hakone - Kyoto
Accommodation: Kyoto Palaceside Hotel -$109

Go to Beer Garden (ALL YOU CAN DRINK) http://www.gethiroshima.com/en/Places/Seasonal/BeerGardens

Tuesday- Kyoto (Tour Kyoto)
Accommodation: Kyoto Palaceside Hotel - $109
Visit Gion to go see Gaishas

Wednesday - Kyoto - Nara - Kyoto
Accommodation: Kyoto Palaceside Hotel -$109

-Really good temples.
-Good for a day/half day. You can easily get templed out in Kyoto and Nara
-the deers bow at you!
-you can walk between temples
-loved nara


Thursday - Kyoto - Hiroshima
Accommodation: Hotel Active! - $79
Visit Memorial

Friday - Hiroshima - Miyajima - Hiroshima
Accommodation: Hotel Active! -$79

Saturday - Fly out of Osaka

Visit Himeji Palace:
Himeji Train Station has lockers

Train to Osaka

Sat 19 Jun 2010 JQ20
JetSaver Light *
Osaka
Sat 19 Jun 2010
2020 hr / 8:20 pm
Kansai International Airport

Brushing up on my Japanese...

6 days!

Happy Memorial Day!

So Aussie's don't celebrate Memorial Day, and even if they did, today is actually Tuesday over here, but nonetheless there is no real theme to this blog besides random updates and thoughts so that is gonna have to be the most fitting title...

Walking to work today I saw a high speed police car chase. That is the most 'crime' I've seen since I've gotten here. Not to say it doesn't exist. The most popular show on TV here is an Australian show called 'Underbelly'. It's a drama but based completely on a guy who owns a bunch of the clubs and brothels in Kings Cross. It's very peculiar to me that they do this because this guy is still very much alive and running the Kings Cross underworld. The main actor in the show even shadowed him for awhile to understand him more as a character. The equivalent to this would be if when the Sopranos was on TV, there was a real live mafioso named Tony Soprano that the show was based on. Or if 'The Departed' had been released when Whitey Bulger was at the peak of his domination over the Boston underworld. It just seems kind of odd to me to be glorifying (and somewhat condoning) this type of behavior when it is actually going on. I guess that is what makes it so compelling.

Tuesdays, or tonight, have turned into our official flatmate dinner nights. One person cooks (we rotate) and the other two bring wine. I have already warned my flatmates that my cooking skills are limited and sub par at best... They are determined to teach me how, though when my turn rolls around they've assured me they will supply me with a recipe and ample supervision so I don't blow up our place. Fortunately for me (and them!) the next two Tuesdays, I will be in Japan. I leave a week from today and am getting SO excited. More on that in a later post...

If anyone had planned to, there is no longer any need to send me an american power strip as I have managed to break all of my american electronics by plugging them into the wall using the converter. Apparently the change in voltage was enough to kill them all. So R.I.P. hair dryer, alarm clock, mini fan (this one actually had a puff of smoke come out of it when it died). In lieu of flowers and donations, feel free to send American themed stuff, flags, etc. We're having our housewarming party on July 3rd, so I've convinced my flat mates to have it be American themed in honor of the 4th of July. My friend Lindsey is bringing her beer pong table (they actually don't really know what it is or play it over here. I am giving myself the unofficial title of beer pong ambassador).

I think I failed to mention previously but a few weekends ago, a group of us went to the Hunter Valley which is like the Napa/Sonoma here, and went wine tasting. My friends also surprised me with a home made birthday cake when we were out there.



Team America (in Hunter Valley)...F*CK YEAH!!!

A few other quick updates...Pat's trip out here is back on for now. His trainers told him they think he should wait til December to get the shoulder surgery so assuming his shoulder doesn't actually split between now and when he heads out here (at the end of the month) I'll see him soon. Also, I am starting to plan my first trip back to the U.S. in October. My friend Erica is getting married in Boston. I'm going to try to come for like 3 weeks and stay a few different places and continue to work while I'm over there. I'll try to make it to Florida but since there is no Google office there, I'm not sure what the policy is. Just putting this heads up out there so if you want to see me when I'm home, let me know so we can try to coordinate something.

Alright, that's it for now. Will try to update more soon! Oh, and I know you all probably saw this when Ben sent out his photos but I just loved this one!!!